The Truth About Collagen Skincare

written by: Allison Goins, Ph.D. | Published on April 4^th, 2021 at 5:00 pm

Welcome to the world of collagen skincare —a realm where promises of youthful, radiant skin often collide with scientific realities. In this article, we’ll embark on a journey to unravel the mysteries of collagen in skincare. What is collagen, and why is it such a buzzword in the beauty industry? Join us as we delve into the science behind collagen, its various types, and its role in nurturing your skin. By the end, you’ll have a clearer understanding of what collagen can truly offer in the pursuit of healthier and more vibrant skin.

About the Author: As a materials scientist with a Ph.D., I understand just how deeply skincare products interact with our bodies. That’s why I founded Relatable Science – to ditch the marketing lingo and translate the real science of ingredients like collagen into actionable advice for you. This article? It’s all about the latest research, meticulously combed through, then boiled down to clear, bite-sized facts. Trust me, I get the frustration of navigating skincare hype. Let’s decode the collagen mystery together, shall we?

Understanding Collagen in Skincare

Have you ever wondered what collagen is and why it’s so frequently touted as a skincare miracle? A main focus of so many people’s skincare routine is to prevent the signs of aging. And collagen is a key contributor to youthful skin. So, let’s unravel the science behind it.

The Basics of Collagen

In the realm of materials, collagen falls into the polymer category. More precisely, it’s a biopolymer—a molecule built from biological monomers, not synthetic ones.

Composition and Structure

Imagine collagen as a complex stack of Legos. The Legos that make up the collagen molecule are amino acids. These amino acids link together to create a long-chain molecule or polymer. The arrangement of these bonded amino acids forms a unique triple helical structure, making collagen look somewhat like DNA, which has a double helix. Collagen, however, boasts an additional helix, earning it the title of a triple-helical molecule.

The Many Types of Collagen

Collagen is no one-trick pony. With over 10 different amino acid types and numerous possible arrangements, there can be up to 16 different collagen types in the human body. These types serve various roles and functions. However, the most prominent players are collagen I through IV, accounting for a significant 80 to 90% of the collagen in our bodies.

Collagen Type I: If you’ve ever heard about firmness and skin texture, you were likely talking about collagen type I. It’s the star of the show in skincare because it plays a central role in providing support to the skin.
Collagen Type II: This type takes the spotlight in joints, aiding in cushioning and protecting cartilage. It’s an essential component in preventing damage to adjacent rigid tissues like bones.
Collagen Type III: Supporting vital organs, collagen type III forms protective layers around structures like kidneys and lungs.
Collagen Type IV: Unlike its structural counterparts, collagen type IV focuses on filtration. Found in the skin, it serves a protective role much like collagen type I.

Collagen and Your Skin’s Structure

Understanding the skin’s structure is crucial in comprehending collagen’s role. Your skin comprises three layers: the epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous layer. The epidermis, the outermost layer, acts as a protective barrier. It shields your body from unwanted invaders like chemicals, harmful microorganisms, and even damaging UV rays from the sun. The dermis, nestled between the layers, houses blood vessels, hair follicles, and many of the important skin cells. Lastly, the subcutaneous layer, the innermost, houses fat cells that provide a protective cushion for the organs beneath the skin.

The Production of Collagen

Fibroblasts, residing in the dermis, are responsible for collagen production in the body. Scientifically, it’s proven that collagen can stimulate these fibroblasts to produce more collagen. So logically it makes sense that putting collagen on your skin would help your body make more collagen to keep your skin youthful… right… wrong.

The Reality of Collagen in Skincare

So, let’s address the elephant in the room. While there’s scientific evidence supporting collagen’s ability to stimulate collagen production in the right circumstances, it’s essential to recognize that this doesn’t apply to most skincare products. Typically, collagen is applied topically, meaning it’s placed on the surface of the skin.

The challenge lies in the fact that fibroblasts, the collagen-producing heroes, aren’t residents of the epidermis. This outer layer is engineered to keep out larger molecules, such as collagen, from infiltrating deeper layers or entering the bloodstream. Collagen, being relatively large (about 30 times larger than a single cell), lacks the ability to penetrate the dermis where fibroblasts reside. Consequently, topically applied collagen can’t effectively stimulate collagen production.

When Collagen Shines in Skincare

There’s one exception to collagen’s effectiveness in topical application—when a wound is present. Imagine you’ve had a bout of acne, and perhaps you couldn’t resist picking at it. In such cases, if an open sore is created, applying collagen can genuinely aid in promoting healthier, more natural wound healing. This works because the epidermis, acting as a barrier, is compromised, allowing collagen to reach the fibroblasts in the dermis.

What Are Some Alternatives to Collagen?

So if collagen is not an effective anti-aging product what can you use? Two notable contenders in this arena are small-sized hyaluronic acid and peptides. Small-sized hyaluronic acid, with its remarkable ability to retain moisture and plump the skin, is a hydration powerhouse. It helps maintain the skin’s suppleness and diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

On the other hand, peptides, which are chains of amino acids, can stimulate collagen production in your skin, indirectly contributing to its firmness and elasticity. Together, these alternatives offer a compelling approach to achieving youthful and revitalized skin, making them valuable components of many effective skincare routines.

In summary, collagen is indeed a remarkable biomaterial with effectiveness under specific conditions. To make the most of it, it’s crucial to use collagen properly and understand its limitations. So, when it comes to collagen skincare, it’s a waste of money to pay for a topical product because it is not going to give you the desired antiaging effect.

As we conclude this exploration of collagen skincare and its alternatives, remember that the path to healthy, radiant skin is a journey of choices. Armed with the knowledge of collagen’s role and the potential of small-sized hyaluronic acid and peptides, you’re now better equipped to make informed decisions about your skincare routine. Whether you choose to embrace collagen or explore these alternatives, the key is to prioritize what works best for your unique skin needs. So, take the first step today, and embark on your skincare journey with confidence. If you found this information valuable, stay tuned for more insights and tips to help you achieve the results you truly desire. Your skin deserves the best, and with the right choices, you can unlock its full potential.