Written by Allison Goins Ph.D. | Published on January 6th, 2024 at 2:00 pm
In the ever-evolving world of skincare, alpha arbutin has become a hot topic; another ingredient in the hyperpigmentation holy grail category. It is touted as a miracle worker for hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and uneven skin tone. It’s no surprise people struggling with unevenness in their skin tone are eager to get their hands on an alpha arbutin serum. But before you jump on the bandwagon, let’s break down the science behind alpha arbutin and see if the Acure Alphas Arbutin serum lives up to the hype.
So How Does Alpha Arbutin Work In Brightening Your Skin Tone?
Alpha arbutin is a naturally occurring component of many plant extracts. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color.
Related Post: What is Melanin and How Does Melanin Protect Skin?
One of the reasons it is such a popular skin-brightening ingredient is because it is a compound of the gold standard skin-lightening ingredient, hydroquinone, and glucose.
Studies show hydroquinone can inhibit tyrosinase activity, which means melanin molecules cannot be bundled and transferred to keratinocytes (this is the biological process that makes hyperpigmentation stubborn and hard to get rid of).
Related Post: What Causes Hyperpigmentation: The Science Behind Clearer Skin
It also can destroy melanosomes (your melanin-producing cells), ultimately causing permanent death which can lead to more pigmentation issues in the future. This is why hydroquinone is not allowed in over-the-counter cosmetics, and even if it is prescribed by a dermatologist you have to be monitored closely and cannot be on a prescription for an extended time.
The extra glucose molecule attached to Alpha Arbutin makes it less irritating and toxic to your melanocytes. This means it can potentially lighten dark spots, sun damage, and hyperpigmentation without the risks associated with using hydroquinone.
What Does the Clinical Data Say About Alpha Arbutin?
Studies have shown an alpha arbutin serum can effectively prevent the formation of pigmentation and reduce hyperpigmentation that is already present. Most of the studies are on patients with melasma, a skin condition that causes dark patches and spots on the face. In most of the clinical studies, alpha arbutin was used in combination with other ingredients that are known for helping tackle the different components of a brightening regimen, like acids and cell turnover enhancers like retinol. However, it’s important to note that results can vary depending on the concentration of alpha arbutin, the severity of your hyperpigmentation, and your skin tone.
So What Should You Looking For If You Are Looking For an Alpha Arbutin Serum?
If you are interested in finding an alpha arbutin serum for your own skincare routine, if the percentage is listed you want to look for formulations with a concentration of 2% to 10%. This is the range that most of the clinical data showed there was a positive effect.
Putting the Acure Alpha Arbutin Serum to the Test:
All About My Experience:
I have combination acne-prone skin so I am constantly getting acne and fighting post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. My skincare routine is tailored around and consistently targets reducing my acne breakouts and combating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
I have tried quite a few exfoliating acid masks to help with hyperpigmentation, and now I am focusing on serums that help prevent the formation of hyperpigmentation. On this journey, one of my first stops was the Acure Alpha Arbutin serum. As we talked about earlier alpha arbutin is chemically the closest ingredient to hydroquinone that is available over the counter, so that is why I decided to start with alpha arbutin serums.
The Acure Alpha Arbutin serum contains 2% alpha arbutin which is an effective concentration based on results from clinical studies. It comes in a white bottle with a pump. The product is clear and has a loose jelly consistency. It is just a little more viscous than water, it is the perfect consistency for a serum that goes on after cleansing before creams. When you are applying the product there is not a noticeable scent, and it absorbs and dries down into your skin within a couple of seconds.
In addition to the alpha arbutin, it also contains a ton of ingredients to keep your skin hydrated like water, aloe juice, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, polyglutamic acid, and propanediol. So I do think it is a good idea to apply a toner right before you apply it so that your skin there is more than enough water for all of the added humectants to grab onto and keep your skin plump and hydrated.
My Results and Honesty
I used the product for four weeks and was relatively consistent in applying it three times a week in my morning and evening routine. I also used a higher-strength exfoliating mask once a week and a retinol cream each night. The exfoliating mask and retinol cream are consistent staples in my routine so the alpha arbutin serum was the only addition. For my morning routine, I applied the Acure Alpha Arbutin serum and sunscreen.
I did notice that by incorporating it into my morning and nighttime routine there was no new pigmentation that showed up on my skin particularly after I had an acne breakout. As opposed to typically getting a new dark mark once the acne went away this did not happen. For the hyperpigmentation that already exists, I did not see any marks fade away in a faster timeline than is the typical 4-6 weeks of skin turnover.
All in all, I think this is a good preventative serum to have in your routine if you are working on fighting stubborn hyperpigmentation and do not want any new marks to form, but this serum did not quickly fade dark spots for me the way hydroquinone can. I think it is important to note, that preventing the formation of new hyperpigmentation is a real component in the journey of getting an even skin tone so I do think this product is valuable in a routine as long as you have your expectations set properly.
How Does It Stack Up To Other Alpha Arbutin Serums?
The Acure Alpha Arbutin Serum comes in a 1-ounce bottle and is $21.99.
Let’s talk about how the Acure serum stacks up to other alpha arbutin serums on the market.
The Ordinary 2% Alpha Arbutin+HA
The Ordinary sells a very popular alternative that has a similar formulation with 2% alpha arbutin and hyaluronic acid. The Ordinary serum also contains lactic acid to help brighten, but not as many other humectants are present. It costs $11.50 for a 1-ounce bottle in their staple glass bottle with a dropper.
The Inkey List 2% Alpha Arbutin
The Inkey List also has a 2% alpha arbutin serum that is $12.99 for 1 ounce. This formulation contains squalane an ingredient known for helping control oil production, antioxidant function, and hydration. It also has Vitamin E which is a popular antioxidant. It is not a clear solution like The Ordinary and Acure it is a bit creamier and it comes in a squeeze bottle.
Topicals Faded Serum
The Topicals Faded Serum for Dark Spots & Discoloration also contains alpha arbutin. It is $38.00 for 1.7 ounces and although does not say what the concentration of the alpha arbutin is this is a product that gets rave reviews and is power-packed with other brightening superstars like tranexamic acid, azelaic acid, and licorice root extract.
The Final Verdict
I liked the Acure Alpha Arbutin serum, but I probably would not repurchase it if I were focused on spending money to get rid of my hyperpigmentation.
It does have an efficacious amount of alpha arbutin so it will have some effect on your hyperpigmentation, but for the price point, I think the topicals faded serum will give you much more bang for your buck. If you prefer formulations that are more hero ingredient-centric and don’t take as much of a holistic formulation approach. The Ordinary or The Inkey List alpha arbutin serums could give you a similar result for almost half of the price.
Beyond the Hype:
Remember, alpha arbutin is just one piece of the puzzle. Consistent sun protection, a healthy lifestyle, and a well-rounded skincare routine are crucial for achieving and maintaining a radiant complexion.
Ready to crack the code on your hyperpigmentation journey?
Share your experiences with alpha arbutin in the comments below! What are your favorite brightening serums? Have you tried the Acure Alpha Arbutin Serum? Let’s learn from each other and build a community of informed skincare enthusiasts.
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