The Inkey List’s 3% Polyglutamic Acid Serum is one of the most available polyglutamic acid serums. While other products have polyglutamic acid or sodium polyglutamate, the Inkey Lists is the most popular. The Inkey List markets it as a surface hydration serum that reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. I spent the last three weeks trying out the serum as my moisturizer, and here are my opinions.
About the Product
The Inkey List 3% Polyglutamic Acid comes in a plastic bottle with a plunger. Today, the minimalist black and white packaging design is a familiar aesthetic in skincare products. The actual polyglutamic acid serum is a translucent gel. When you press the plunger, not much product comes out (less than a pea-sized amount), so I had to press the plunger a couple of times. Although many products do not come out, the coverage is excellent, so you do not need a lot. The product does not have a perfume or fragrance in it. It costs $15 for 1 ounce at Sephora.
Benefits of the Polyglutamic Acid
Polyglutamic acid is a large polypeptide molecule that behaves like a humectant. Meaning it can absorb and retain water. This makes it an excellent reservoir for moisture to keep your skin hydrated and address the superficial signs of aging like fine lines and wrinkles due to dehydrated skin. So it is great that The Inkey List has accurately marketed the product and is not exaggerating or overclaiming its benefits. As a surface hydrator, polyglutamic acid does have the ability to hold more water than hyaluronic acid. This makes it an advantageous molecule, but it does not have all of the functionalities of hyaluronic acid. Because polyglutamic acid is a larger molecule, it cannot penetrate beneath the dermis, functioning as a surface moisture reservoir.
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Things I Loved:
- The finish on your skin. In addition to the polyglutamic acid in the serum, there are also several silicones in the product formulation. I liked that this left a smooth finish on my face. After using the PGA serum, I used my squalane and sunscreen. The PGA serum with the silicones made my sunscreen go on very smoothly, spreading well.
Things to Be Mindful Of:
- The price is $15, which could be a bit high for a product that only does one thing. It is an excellent hydrator, and I loved the finish on my skin, but this is not a product formulated to address multiple skin concerns. If you don’t mind having a single-use product, this is a good product.
- The smell. It had a very chemical smell. It smelled like a wet can of paint. If you are a person that cannot tolerate fragrance on your skin though this formulation will be great for you because it is fragrance-free.
Using It in Your Routine:
If you are going to incorporate the Inkey Lists 3% Polyglutamic Acid, it should be the final step in the water-based products of your routine. It is a good idea to use this product if you are having issues with dry skin or your skin barrier is recovering from being damaged. You can use this in the morning or evening without any concerns.