Why You Need a Tyrosinase Inhibitor In Your Skincare Routine

written by: Allison Goins, Ph.D. | Published on November 30th at 6:00 am

If you have ever tried to tackle stubborn hyperpigmentation, you know that it can be a long and painful process. There is no quick and easy way to get rid of that stubborn post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, so if at all possible, your best bet is to prevent or minimize it. And a tyrosinase inhibitor is the perfect way to do that.

I have acne-prone skin, and I have seen a lot of improvements focusing my efforts on prevention. If you are a fellow acne-prone person or just trying to get rid of stubborn hyperpigmentation, you should not be a stranger to a tyrosinase inhibitor. You need one in your routine, and you need to use it daily. So, let’s talk about what a tyrosinase inhibitor is and why it’s so crucial in your quest for a clear and even skin tone.

What is Tyrosinase, and Why Should You Want To Inhibit It?

Tyrosinase is an enzyme crucial in the production of melanin. Most people know melanin is the pigment that colors our skin, hair, and eyes. However, melanin’s lesser-known and arguably more important function is protecting your skin from UV damage.

Melanin production is a natural process. However, exposure to the sun, inflammation, hormonal changes, and aging can trigger excessive melanin production, leading to hyperpigmentation. This is why the most common forms of hyperpigmentation are post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), tanning after a long day in the sun, or dark spots that pop up as we age.

Your body kicks melanin production into overdrive in these situations because melanin is a natural antioxidant. It helps neutralize free radicals to prevent them from damaging your skin. And tyrosinase plays a central role in this process, initiating and speeding up the chemical reactions that result in melanin production.

So, by controlling or inhibiting tyrosinase activity in your skin, you can reduce melanin production, which is key to preventing and lightening uneven skin tone.

How Do Tyrosinase Inhibitors Work?

Tyrosinase inhibitors work by blocking or slowing down this important enzyme’s ability to initiate and speed up melanin production. There is evidence when you apply them topically, these inhibitors interfere with the enzyme’s activity in pigment cells (melanocytes). This interference stops the melanocytes from producing stable melanin molecules that can be transferred and incorporated into your skin barrier.

Stopping this is key to preventing new hyperpigmentation formation while allowing your skin to form fresh layers and remove existing hyperpigmentation. Over time, consistent use of products that include these ingredients in combination with sunscreen can help even out skin tone and diminish visible hyperpigmentation.

Common Types of Tyrosinase Inhibitors

Some common tyrosinase inhibitors are well-studied and readily available in skin care products. Some of them you may be familiar while others may be new:

Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)

Vitamin C is arguably the most popular and well-studied tyrosinase inhibitor. In combination with Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid, vitamin C is a popular and powerful science-backed trifecta to tackle hyperpigmentation. Vitamin C, specifically, is a powerful antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals and inhibits tyrosinase activity, preventing melanin production.

Niacinamide

Also known as Vitamin B, niacinamide inhibits melanin transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes. This is the step where the melanin produced in your skin is permanently incorporated into your epidermis. Disrupting this process means preventing about 10-12 weeks of waiting out stubborn new dark spots.

Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is a byproduct of certain fungi and fermentation processes. It is an effective tyrosinase inhibitor and is sometimes used in studies of new tyrosinase inhibitors to determine their effectiveness.

Arbutin

Arbutin is a natural derivative of hydroquinone that inhibits tyrosinase without the same level of irritation associated with hydroquinone. While hydroquinone is the gold standard for skin lightening, it can also cause permanent damage to melanocytes and irritate your skin. Arbutin is a more gentle alternative that, while not as effective as hydroquinone, can still help with hyperpigmentation.

Licorice Extract (Glabridin)

Licorice extract, particularly the component glabridin an another natural tyrosinase inhibitor. It has been shown to inhibit tyrosinase and has anti-inflammatory properties. This is one of the lesser studied tyrosinase inhibitors, however the science is promising.

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid inhibits tyrosinase and has anti-inflammatory properties. It is particularly popular among people with acne-prone skin because it can help treat both hyperpigmentation and acne.

Benefits of Tyrosinase Inhibitors in Treating Hyperpigmentation

So, if hydroquinone is the gold standard for skin lightening, why might a person use a tyrosinase inhibitor instead? For starters, hydroquinone is only available when it is prescribed by a dermatologist, but products with tyrosinase inhibitors can be found over the counter. Here are some of the reasons why you might consider using a tyrosinase inhibitor:

Reduced Dark Spots and Even Skin Tone: By targeting the root of melanin production, tyrosinase inhibitors gradually lighten dark spots and promote a more even complexion.
Prevention of New Hyperpigmentation: Consistent use of tyrosinase inhibitors, particularly when combined with sunscreen, can help prevent new areas of hyperpigmentation from forming.
Safe for Long-Term Use: Many tyrosinase inhibitors, like niacinamide and vitamin C, are safe for prolonged use, making them suitable for managing chronic hyperpigmentation concerns. Hydroquinone is not recommended for long-term usage, as it can permanently damage your melanin-producing cells.
Added Benefits: Ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, and azelaic acid offer additional benefits such as antioxidant protection, anti-inflammatory effects, and collagen support, which enhance skin health and appearance beyond just treating hyperpigmentation.

How to Incorporate A Tyrosinase Inhibitor Into Your Skincare Routine

Consistency is Key: Hyperpigmentation is definitely one of those skincare concerns that is a marathon, not a sprint, and using tyrosinase inhibitors only turns it into a half-marathon. If you want to tackle stubborn hyperpigmentation with a tyrosinase inhibitor, you have to be consistent. Typically it takes 2-3 months of consistent use to see noticeable results. Incorporate them into your daily routine for lasting benefits.
Combine with Sunscreen: You will never and I mean never be able to get rid of hyperpigmentation if you are not wearing sunscreen. Sun exposure triggers melanin production and worsens hyperpigmentation if you are not blocking the damaging UV rays. So, pairing tyrosinase inhibitors with a daily SPF is essential for both treatment and prevention.
Layering Ingredients Carefully: Some tyrosinase inhibitors, like vitamin C, work well in the morning, while others, like kojic acid, can be used at night. Be mindful of potential skin sensitivities, especially when layering multiple actives. If you are ever in doubt, check the directions for the product you are using or consult your dermatologist.
Avoid Overuse: Although tyrosinase inhibitors are effective, overuse can sometimes lead to irritation, particularly with potent options like kojic acid. You always want to start with a patch test and then slowly incorporate them into your routine. As you get more accustomed to them, you can increase the frequency of your use.

Potential Side Effects and Safety

While tyrosinase inhibitors are generally safe, if you have sensitive skin, you may want to be cautious. Typically formulated products like the Topicals Faded Cream are tolerated better than high-concentration single-ingredient products. For example, kojic acid and arbutin can cause mild irritation, particularly for sensitive skin. Always perform a patch test before adding a new product to your routine, and consult a dermatologist if you have concerns about specific tyrosinase inhibitors.

Conclusion

Tyrosinase inhibitors are a scientifically backed approach to managing hyperpigmentation. By targeting the melanin production process, these ingredients help fade dark spots and prevent new pigmentation from forming. Consistent use of products with tyrosinase inhibitors, coupled with diligent sun protection, can make a remarkable difference for those struggling with hyperpigmentation. Whether through vitamin C, niacinamide, kojic acid, or other powerful ingredients, tyrosinase inhibitors offer an effective solution to achieving a brighter, more even complexion.