Topical Exosomes for Glowing Skin – Hype or Helpful?

written by Allison Goins, Ph.D. | Published on February 6^th, 2024 at 12:00 pm

Every year we are constantly bombarded with skincare trends, each promising the fountain of youth in a bottle. But with so much conflicting information, it’s hard to separate fact from fiction and find out what is marketing hype versus actually helpful. Recently, topical exosomes have emerged as a novel skincare ingredient, on a bunch of the 2024 skincare trends lists. But how can you know if they are all they’re cracked up to be? If you have questions about topical exosomes and want to know if an exosome facial is worth the hefty price tag, keep reading. Let’s delve into the science and see if these tiny messengers are key to unlocking radiant skin.

About the Author: Allison has a Ph.D. in Materials Science and Engineering, and has spent years delving into the fascinating world of how materials interact with the human body. After her academic pursuits, her passion for scientific exploration steered her toward the realm of beauty and skincare. This is where Relatable Science was born, a blog dedicated to unraveling the science behind the products. With a keen eye for research, Allison meticulously analyzes peer-reviewed studies to translate complex scientific jargon into easy-to-understand takeaways. Her mission? To empower individuals, to make informed choices about their skincare journeys by bridging the gap between scientific advancements and everyday routines. Whether it’s deciphering the latest ingredient buzz or understanding the intricate dance between exosomes and skin health, Allison is here to guide you through the scientific maze with relatable explanations and actionable insights.

What is an Exosome? | The Science Behind Exosomes in Skincare | Remaining Questions About Exosomes in Skincare | Final Verdict About Topical Exosomes for Anti-Aging

What is an Exosome?

Exosomes are tiny vessels that are shed by cells. They’re like little messengers, carrying important molecules like proteins, DNA, and RNA from one cell to another. In the world of skincare, exosomes are gaining popularity because they are theoretically small enough to penetrate the skin barrier. Small molecules are attractive skincare actives because the ability to penetrate the skin barrier is the most important characteristic for an active to be effective.

Exosomes derived from stem cells are the most popular in skincare because they have the potential to offer all of the benefits of stem cells in topical applications. Stem cells are very popular, because they have amazing regenerative and healing properties. And because studies have shown exosomes can trigger similar functions to their parent cells; these stem cell-derived exosomes are thought to contain similar regenerative properties that can benefit the skin.

So you can think of exosomes as miniature messengers for cells. They can deliver the same instructions without needing the full cell that is too large to deliver its own message when it is applied on top of the skin. This is why topical exosomes seem so popular in skincare, particularly for anti-aging.

So now that we have talked about what an exosome is, let’s talk about what the clinical data says about topical exosomes for anti-aging.

The Science Behind the Hype of Topical Exosomes:

I found a handful of clinical studies from peer-reviewed journals and manufacturer data looking at topical exosomes as a skincare treatment. The studies suggest that topical exosomes might offer several benefits for your skin:

The Potential Wound Healing Benefits of Topical Exosomes

Exosomes promote cell proliferation, collagen synthesis, and blood vessel formation, aiding in tissue repair and potentially improving scar appearance.

Counteracting Key Signs of Aging

They might counteract the age-related decline in collagen and elastin production, leading to firmer, plumper skin.

Working Against the Damaging Effect of Inflammation

Some studies suggest exosomes can calm skin inflammation, potentially benefiting conditions like eczema and rosacea.

But Hold On, Don’t Get Carried Away About Topical Exosomes Just Yet:

While the science behind topical exosomes is promising, there are some crucial caveats to consider:

There is VERY Limited Research About Topical Exosomes

Most studies are small-scale and preliminary, requiring further investigation to solidify their efficacy and safety in skincare. There are quite a few exosome products currently in the pipeline for FDA approval. However, none have been evaluated and approved yet.

Unstandardized Products

The isolation, purification, and composition of exosomes can vary greatly between brands, impacting their effectiveness and potential risks. Since there is no regulation or standard for exosomes in skincare yet there is no way to ensure your significant investment is worthwhile.

Delivery Dilemma, Can Topical Exosomes Actually Penetrate

Although exosomes are significantly smaller than a cell, exosomes are still relatively large molecules. And their ability to penetrate the skin barrier remains a question mark. All of the studies that I was able to find using topical exosomes combined it with microneedling or some other penetration-enhancing treatment.

Some studies suggested applying topical exosomes after microneedling or laser therapy to enhance absorption, but these procedures come with their own set of considerations. And the fact that I was not able to find any studies without it I would not suggest trying to use topical exosomes standalone.

Regulation

Currently, no topical exosome products are FDA-approved, and their long-term safety profile is unknown.

So, Are Topical Exosomes the Holy Grail of Skincare?

The jury is still out. Like most new skincare actives, the science to back up the marketing hype is just not there.

Similar to peptides; while the potential benefits are intriguing, more robust research and standardized regulations are needed before we can crown them the ultimate skincare heroes.

Related Post: The Science of Peptides in Skincare Explained

Remember:

Consult your dermatologist before incorporating any new ingredient, especially if you have sensitive skin or pre-existing conditions.
Manage your expectations. Topical exosomes might offer subtle improvements, but they’re unlikely to be a magic bullet for all your skincare concerns.
Focus on a holistic approach. Topical treatments work best when combined with a healthy lifestyle, including a balanced diet, adequate sleep, and sun protection.

Ultimately, the decision to try topical exosomes is yours. But by arming yourself with knowledge and understanding the limitations, you can make an informed choice that aligns with your skincare goals and values.

If you enjoyed what you read and want to make sure you do not miss any of the great information from Relatable Science, sign up for our weekly newsletter.

And let me know in the comments if you are sold on visiting the derm to get a treatment with topical exosomes or if you want to hold off until you learn more.

References

Lotfy, A., AboQuella, N. M., & Wang, H. (2023). Mesenchymal stromal/stem cell (MSC)-derived exosomes in clinical trials. Stem Cell Research & Therapy, 14(1), 66. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37024925/
Kim, D. H., Kang, S. E., Kim, M. S., Kang, Y. H., Lee, Y. H., Chung, I. H., & Jeon, Y. B. (2021). The Utilization of Human Placental Mesenchymal Stem Cell Derived Exosomes in Aging Skin: An Investigational Pilot Study. Journal of Surgical Research, 1388(2), 39-47. https://exosomes.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/JSUR-1388-2.pdf
Yu, W., Li, M., Li, M., Guo, W., Li, X., Zhao, Y., … & Zheng, G. (2021). Topical Application of Exosomes Derived from Human Umbilical Cord Mesenchymal Stem Cells in Combination with Sponge Spicules for Treatment of Photoaging. International Journal of Nanomedicine, 16, 8385-8398. https://doi.org/10.2147/IJN.S249751
Yang, T., Zhang, X., Wu, H., Chen, W., Liu, S., Liu, H., … & Wu, M. (2022). Exosomes based advancements for application in medical aesthetics. Frontiers in Bioengineering and Biotechnology, 10, 1083640. https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fbioe.2022.1083640/full
Azam, F. (2020). Needle-Free Injection of Exosome-based candidates move into the clinic. Nature Reviews Drug Discovery, 19(3), 156-157. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7032013/
Kim, B.-J., Kim, W.-C., Song, Y.-B., Sung, J.-H., Kwon, T.-G., Oh, Y.-M., & Bae, J.-M. (2023). Efficacy of combined treatment with human adipose tissue stem cell-derived exosome-containing solution and microneedling for facial skin aging: A 12-week prospective, randomized, split-face study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 22(2), 380-388. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37377400/
Kim, K. H., & Sung, J. H. (2023). A Review of exosomes and their application in cutaneous medical aesthetics. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 22(3), 801-814
, 14(1), 66. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37498301/