Mandelic Acid 101: The Gentle Giant of AHAs- Understanding the Mandelic Acid Benefits

Written By: Allison Goins, Ph.D. | Published on January 9^th, 2024 at 12:00 pm

Whenever you think about exfoliating acids glycolic acid is considered the gold standard and the most commonly used alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). But what if your skin throws a tantrum at the mere mention of acids? You might need something a bit more gentle. Mandelic acid is increasing in popularity for those who want a more gentle AHA. So let’s break down the science of mandelic acid and talk about the mandelic acid benefits that have caused its surge in popularity.

So if you are craving smoother, brighter skin without the drama of redness and irritation keep reading. Mandelic acid, the gentle giant of AHAs can help tackle acne, fade hyperpigmentation, and even regulate sebum production, all while being kind to even the most sensitive skin.

About the Author: Allison is a scientist turned skincare enthusiast with a passion for deciphering the science behind beauty. Holding a Ph.D. in tissue engineering and regenerative medicine, Dr. Goins dives deep into the cellular level, examining how ingredients interact with skin tissue and orchestrate their transformations. Her expertise lies in deciphering the complex language of scientific research and translating it into relatable insights for the everyday skincare user just like her.

What is Mandelic Acid?

Sweet almonds are a very popular snack, but you may not know that there is another type of almond called bitter almonds that have a different chemical composition. And one of the chemicals that can be isolated from bitter almonds is skincare’s gentle giant AHA, Mandelic Acid.

AHA’s like mandelic acid are also called fruit acids because they are naturally occurring in fruits. The acids are popular in skincare formulations because they are small molecules. The benefits of all AHA’s and more specifically the mandelic acid benefits are their ability to remove the outer layer of dead skin cells to reveal a fresh complexion.

Like I said in the intro the most popular of the AHAs is glycolic acid. It is the smallest of the fruit acids which means it can penetrate the skin barrier the fastest. Mandelic acid is about double the size of glycolic acid because it contains 6 more carbons in its backbone than glycolic acid.

The Science Behind Mandelic Acid

Although mandelic acid is significantly larger than glycolic acid it still can penetrate the skin barrier. Due to its size, it is a tortoise penetrating the skin’s barrier at a slow and steady pace. While it does not penetrate as quickly as glycolic acid mandelic acid has all of the same skincare benefits as glycolic acid. It can break down the skin cells that make up the outer layer of your skin, kill acne-causing bacteria, and it is anti-inflammatory.

So How Is Mandelic Acid Different From Glycolic Acid?

While mandelic acid is very similar to glycolic acid, the size difference does lead to some important performance differences.

One of the mandelic acid benefits that gives it an edge over glycolic acid is that it penetrates the skin barrier more uniformly.

Lastly, because of its size, it is not as harsh as glycolic acid. This means if you get a high-strength mandelic acid peel you are less likely to get the peeling layers of skin like you do with a high-strength glycolic acid peel. But the benefit is clinical studies show you will still see a similar improvement in your hyperpigmentation.

The Gentle Giant’s Benefits

Mandelic acid can be a great option for a person who knows they have sensitive skin, people with oily and acne-prone skin, or beginners who are just building a skincare routine. These are some of the mandelic acid benefits that are science-backed. But remember everyone’s skin is different so there are no guarantees.

Gentle Exfoliation

Smaller chemical exfoliants like glycolic acid can cause burning and redness when you use them. Particularly if you are working with a dermatologist or esthetician and getting a high-strength chemical peel. Additionally, if you are thinking about getting a chemical peel but do not want to have the peeling skin mandelic acid and combination peels with mandelic and salicylic acid can be a great option for you.

If you know that you have sensitive skin and want to incorporate a chemical exfoliant into your skincare routine or you are just getting into chemical exfoliation and want to ease your skin in, mandelic acid is a great place to start.

Combatting Acne

If you have acne-prone skin, mandelic acid has potent antibacterial properties as well as some ability to control sebum production. It was also evaluated clinically to treat acne in a standalone serum in a concentration of 5% for people with sensitive skin and 10% for people with oily skin. The participants used it once a day for two months and 60% saw an improvement in their acne.

Hyperpigmentation Hero

Possibly what mandelic acid is most popular for is its ability to combat hyperpigmentation. Whether it is hyperpigmentation caused by melasma, sun spots, aging, or post-inflammatory acne there is plenty of clinical data that says a mandelic acid peel or a daily topical mandelic acid can be a gentle way to work towards an even skin tone.

Sebum Regulation A Split Decision?

Although there was only one study, there is limited evidence that for women with mature skin who are experiencing uneven dryness, a mandelic acid peel can help regulate sebum production to keep your skin hydrated.

Incorporating Mandelic Acid into Your Routine

If you have sensitive skin or have never used a chemical exfoliant and are looking for a product to add to your skincare routine mandelic acid is a great option for you. If you have used glycolic acid and your skin can tolerate it, you should continue using glycolic acid. There is no added benefit that mandelic acid can provide that glycolic acid will not.

If you are considering a chemical peel and do not want to deal with the peeling layers of skin, then consider talking with your dermatologist or licensed esthetician about a mandelic acid peel or mandelic and salicylic acid combination peel as an alternative to glycolic acid. One of the the best mandelic acid benefits is that it does not cause significant peeling when it is used in high strength peels.

Integrate mandelic acid into your skincare routine gradually. Begin with once or twice a week, assessing how your skin responds. Over time, you can increase the frequency, ensuring optimal results without overwhelming your skin. Remember that chemical exfoliation is a great tool in your skin-brightening toolbox, but if you overdo it then you will wind up doing more harm than good.

Choosing the Right Product For You

If you have decided you want to get the mandelic acid benefits in your brightening skincare routine, here are a couple of product options to get you started.

If you have sensitive since the brand new Paula’s Choice Mandelic Acid is your best bet. For the acne-prone skin, The Inkey or The Ordinary products can be a good place to start for you.

The Inkey List 10% Mandelic Acid

Try It Now! ($11.99)

The Ordinary 10% Mandelic Acid + HA

Try It Now! ($7.80)

Paula’s Choice 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid

Try It Now! ($37.00)

Potential Side Effects and Precautions

Although the data shows one of the mandelic acid benefits is that it is much less irritating than glycolic acid in high strength chemical peels there were still some people who experienced redness and irritation. Skincare is incredibly personal and specific to everyone so patch testing before applying mandelic acid all over your face is a good idea.

Mandelic acid can also make your skin photosensitive so wearing sunscreen is a must.

Overusing mandelic acid may also lead to irritation and breakouts from over-exfoliation, so remember this is not an everyday product use it three times a week at most.

You also want to avoid getting mandelic acid in your eyes, as it may cause irritation or damage.

Embrace the Gentle Giant: Your Gateway to Glowing Skin

Mandelic acid might be a newer kid on the hyperpigmentation block, but its gentle prowess deserves a standing ovation. From banishing blemishes to fading hyperpigmentation, this hero ingredient works its magic without the usual drama. So, say goodbye to harsh chemicals and hello to a radiant, even-toned complexion, all thanks to the gentle giant of AHAs.

Ready to join the mandelic acid movement? Here’s your game plan:

Start slow: Introduce it once or twice a week, listening to your skin’s happy dance.
Find your bestie: Choose a product that suits your needs and budget.
Listen to your skin: Remember, slow and steady wins the race. If irritation arises, take a break and consult your dermatologist.
Glow from within: Embrace the science-backed power of mandelic acid, and watch your skin transform – one exfoliated cell at a time.

So ditch the filters, unlock your natural radiance, and let your skin tell its brightest story. Mandelic acid is your gentle guide, ready to lead you to the glowing, confident you that deserves to shine!

Intrigued by the mandelic acid benefits? Ready to begin your mandelic acid journey? Share your questions and experiences in the comments below! Let’s build a community of glowing warriors, one gentle giant at a time!