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When To Apply Hyaluronic Acid, Explained

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written by: Allison Goins, Ph.D. | Published on May 10th, 2021 at 6:05 pm

I’ve noticed an increasing number of discussions lately regarding hyaluronic acid’s potential to cause dehydrated skin. Which has created a lot of discussion about when to apply hyaluronic acid. In this post, we’ll address the question: Is hyaluronic acid good for dry skin or a dry climate? To do that, let’s delve into the science behind hyaluronic acid and determine whether its reputation as a hydration powerhouse and sometimes dehydrating agent holds true or if it’s just a misconception.

hyaluronic acid dirpping out of a pipette on a pink background

If you’re someone who keeps up with skincare news, you might have come across claims that misusing hyaluronic acid can actually lead to dehydration. This has led some to believe that other molecules, like polyglutamic acid, might be better for your skin. While there’s some validity to this argument, it’s essential to understand the whole picture. Today, we’ll explore when to apply hyaluronic acid and whether hyaluronic acid can dehydrate the skin.

Related Post: Polyglutamic Acid Serum: Is it a Must-Have in Your Routine?

What is Hyaluronic Acid? | How Does It Work In Your Routine? | Is It Good For Dry Skin? | When To Apply It

About the Author: Skincare science detective here! Dr. Allison, armed with a Ph.D. in Materials Science and a passion for decoding skincare ingredient mysteries. Today, we’re tackling hyaluronic acid: when to tap its hydrating powers for that plump, dewy glow? My articles? Powered by peer-reviewed journals, I break down the science into actionable tips so you can invest wisely and see real results. Let’s dive in!

What is Hyaluronic Acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a natural biopolymer commonly used in dermal fillers and skincare products for its hydrating properties. Your skin produces this polymer naturally, and it’s also manufactured industrially by bacteria. More specifically, hyaluronic acid belongs to a category of polymers known as hydrogels, which have the remarkable ability to retain water, often many times their own weight. This unique quality earns hyaluronic acid its reputation as the “ultimate hydrator” in skincare, as it can serve as a long-term reservoir for skin hydration.

Related Post: Hyaluronic Acid Fillers, What You Need to Know

How Does Hyaluronic Acid Work in Skincare?

The size of hyaluronic acid can change its benefits. Your skin consists of three layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and the subcutaneous layer. The epidermis acts as a protective barrier, preventing the penetration of large molecules. If hyaluronic acid molecules are too large, they will remain on the skin’s surface and act as surface hydrators. However, when smaller hyaluronic acid molecules are applied, they can penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis, bringing water to where skin cells and blood vessels reside.

This is what differentiates hyaluronic acid from other molecules and makes it stand out as an effective skincare ingredient when used correctly. Many other skincare ingredients fail to penetrate the epidermis, limiting their ability to deliver the promised benefits, as some of those benefits only manifest when they interact with skin cells in the dermis.

Related Post: The Truth About Collagen in Skincare

Is Hyaluronic Acid Good For Dry Skin?

Now, let’s tackle the claim that hyaluronic acid can be dehydrating or harmful to dry skin. This claim is based on the fact that hyaluronic acid has a strong affinity for water. As a humectant, hyaluronic acid can attract and retain moisture from its surroundings. This has led some to believe that, as a skincare ingredient, it can not only pull moisture from the air but also draw moisture away from the deeper layers of the skin, resulting in a tight, dehydrated appearance.

However, this may not be entirely accurate. What’s more likely is that your skin isn’t responding positively to hyaluronic acid, or there isn’t sufficient moisture available when applying hyaluronic acid, rendering it ineffective. This can be explained by a biological phenomenon called homeostasis.

Understanding Homeostasis and Its Relation to Hyaluronic Acid

Homeostasis refers to the body’s innate ability to maintain a stable equilibrium among interdependent elements. You might wonder how this concept relates to hyaluronic acid. Allow me to clarify.

Your body excels at balancing the concentrations of essential molecules like water and nutrients that cells and organs require to function optimally. In particular, diffusion is a dynamic process in which molecules (in our case, water) move through a semipermeable membrane (such as hyaluronic acid) from areas of high concentration (still the hyaluronic acid) to areas of low concentration (your skin). This constant process ensures that equilibrium is maintained. So hyaluronic acid you apply will never dehydrate your skin, because there will be a balance. But that doesn’t mean there airen’t things you can do to maximize the benefits of hyaluronic acid.

Final Answer: When to Apply Hyaluronic Acid?

So, to address the question of when to apply hyaluronic acid. You can apply hyaluronic acid regardless of the environment you live in and it can be applied in the morning or evening. When nothing else is going on with your skin hyaluronic acid won’t dehydrate your skin or leave it feeling tight. In conditions with ample moisture in the air and your skin, hyaluronic acid can act as an adequate moisture reservoir. However, it won’t perform miracles by overly hydrating your skin because your environment is already humid and your skin naturally pulls moisture out of the air. When moisture is scarce in the environment and your skin is already dehydrated, hyaluronic acid won’t worsen the situation. Instead, it will work to evenly distribute the available moisture within your skin, thanks to the principles of homeostasis. However it will not plump you skin or temporarily get rid of fin lines and wrinkles because there is not excess water available. To combat this you can periodically refresh your skin with water or a hydrating serum like Mario Badescue’s Facial Spray to make sure you are constantly giving your skin moisture throughout the day.

Remember, the key to getting the most out of hyaluronic acid is proper use and understanding how your skin reacts to it. So, feel confident in incorporating hyaluronic acid into your skincare routine if it suits your needs and your skin’s preferences.

Transforming your skin starts with understanding the science behind it. By harnessing the potential of hyaluronic acid, you’re on the path to healthier, more radiant skin. Take the next step and embark on your skincare adventure with confidence.

 If you found this information valuable, stay tuned for more insights and tips to help you achieve the results you truly desire. Your skin deserves the best, and with the right choices, you can unlock its full potential