ContentsScience of Popular Ingredients

What Does Hyaluronic Acid Do: A Complete Guide

4 Mins read

If you’ve ever wondered about the magic behind your favorite skincare products, you’ve likely come across the term “hyaluronic acid.” But what exactly is it and why is it making waves in the beauty industry? Maybe you’ve heard a lot of product claims and you are wondering what does hyaluronic acid do. Let’s delve into the fascinating world of hyaluronic acid and uncover the secrets behind its popularity.

What is Hyaluronic Acid? And What Does Hyaluronic Acid Do In The Body

Hyaluronic acid isn’t just another ingredient; it’s a naturally occurring biopolymer in our bodies. The answer to the question of what does hyaluronic acid do in our body explains why it is so popular in skincare products. Our cells produce it to maintain tissue moisture and lubricate joints. Specifically, in skin tissue, it plays a crucial role. It helps maintain the skin’s barrier in the epidermis, creating a boundary between different skin layers. In the dermis, it regulates skin hydration and guides cell growth. Originally used in biomedical applications, hyaluronic acid has found its way into skincare, transforming the way we care for our skin.

Related Post: What is Hyaluronic Acid?

Sources for Cosmetic Applications

Hyaluronic acid was originally sourced from rooster combs, hyaluronic acid now comes from bacteria through fermentation. While there are no plant-based sources known yet, scientists are continually exploring new methods to produce it sustainably. Often if you see a product referencing vegan hyaluronic acid this means it comes from bacteria fermentation.

rooster

Related Post: Hyaluronic Acid is a Bacteria By Product? Sources of Hyaluronic Acid

Types of Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare

In skincare, two main types reign supreme: hyaluronic acid and its salts, like sodium hyaluronate. The molecular weight of these types influences their penetration into the skin and their effectiveness in hydrating different skin layers. Hyaluronic acid typically references a higher molecular weight. In contrast, sodium hyaluronate and other salts like potassium hyaluronate are usually of smaller molecular weight. Ingredient suppliers can modify both types to alter the structure and its water-absorbing and retention properties.

Related Post: The Types of Hyaluronic Acid: Is Sodium Hyaluronate Different than Hyaluronic Acid?

How Does Molecular Weight Affect the Performance?

Molecular weight matters. High molecular weight hyaluronic acid sits on the skin’s surface, acting as both a humectant and occlusive, preventing moisture loss. On the other hand, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can penetrate deeper, hydrating inner skin layers. While it’s excellent for hydration, caution is needed, as low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can sometimes trigger irritation.

hyaluronic acid serum

Effectiveness of Topical Application

The buzz around hyaluronic acid isn’t without reason. Skincare products boasting its hydrating effects are abundant. High molecular weight hyaluronic acid acts as a moisture reservoir, preventing moisture loss. For deeper hydration, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid penetrates the skin, leaving it plump and supple. However, it’s important to note that its ability to hold “1000 times its weight” refers to full submersion, not passive absorption from the air. And it only refers to high molecular weight hyaluronic acids.

Overall, topical hyaluronic acid is a generally good humectant and occlusive for the skin. Most studies show that a 2% serum can effectively get the job done.

Related Post: When To Apply Hyaluronic Acid, Explained

Hyaluronic Acid Fillers

Hyaluronic acid shines not only in topical products but also as an injectable filler. Popular for plumping and rejuvenating the skin, these fillers stimulate the skin to produce its own hyaluronic acid and collagen. The consistency of injected hyaluronic acid varies, ensuring natural-looking results.

injection of a hyaluronic acid based filler

There is evidence the presence of it can encourage the skin to produce its own hyaluronic acid, collagen, and other molecules that reduce the signs of aging. Since the first FDA approval of a hyaluronic acid-based dermal filler, there have been a lot of other fillers containing it approved.

Related Post: Hyaluronic Acid Fillers, What You Need to Know

Many companies that make these fillers have several different product SKUs. These differences are usually related to the molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid injected. And while the question what does hyaluronic acid do, does not really change depending on the molecular weight the look of it post-injection does. The consistency of hyaluronic acid is directly related to the molecular weight. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is around the consistency of honey, while higher molecular weight hyaluronic acid is more like a jello mold. This consistency difference is important because most people want their injections to look and feel like natural tissues. So the consistency of hyaluronic acid injected in the lip would be different than that under the eye or cheek.

Tips For Using It In Your Skincare Routine

So hopefully now the question, what does hyaluronic acid do is more clear. Here are some expert tips to make the most of hyaluronic acid in your skincare routine:

  • Apply on damp skin or after a toning step for maximum absorption.
  • Use it after applying your active ingredients to seal in hydration.
  • A 2% serum is sufficient for effective hydration; higher concentrations aren’t necessary.
  • If you experience irritation, avoid formulations with low molecular weight hyaluronic acid. Consider separating your hyaluronic acid and vitamin C steps to minimize potential reactions.

Decoding the Hype: Separating Fact from Fiction

As hyaluronic acid gains popularity, is only natural to ask the question, what does hyaluronic acid do; and misinformation abounds. It’s crucial to separate marketing hype from reality. While it’s a fantastic skincare ingredient, understanding the nuances ensures you make informed choices. It is a perfect example of how science can translate into popular culture.

However, as the ingredient has become more mainstream, there are a lot of marketing claims about its capabilities. Some of which are myths and have actually led to lawsuits. Similarly, there is information about hyaluronic acid that is not completely true or a bit more nuanced than it is presented. None of these things make it a bad ingredient or one to stay away from. As a consumer, you want to make sure you are informed about hyaluronic acid and separate the hype from what is actually helpful.

For a deeper dive into the world of hyaluronic acid, explore the other articles in my series.

Complete Series on Hyaluronic Acid

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