The Top 5 Adaptogens in Skincare: What They Are and How They Work

written by: Allison Goins, Ph.D. | Published on January 11^th, 2025 at 6:00 am

Adaptogens are another buzzy skincare ingredient category that is gaining popularity and prevalence. Youth to the People was one of the first more prominent skincare brands to release a product with adaptogens as the hero ingredient. However, an adaptogen is not just one thing; it’s a group of plants. These stress-fighting plant extracts support plants when undergoing environmental stress, and now people want to see if they can leverage those same benefits in people. Today, the marketed benefits of adaptogens range from soothing irritation to boosting hydration. But are these benefits science-backed? Let’s dive into everything we know about some of the most popular adaptogens in skincare today from science.

What is an Adaptogen?

Adaptogens are natural compounds found in certain plants and mushrooms that help them survive harsh conditions, like extreme weather or nutrient-poor soil. These compounds act like the plant’s personal defense system, protecting it from stress. Adaptogens benefit plants in a similar way that antioxidants help our bodies prevent damage from environmental stressors. So it only makes sense that brands want to see if they can use these adaptogens in skincare to pass on some of those benefits to our skin, like calming irritation or helping the skin stay strong against things like pollution or dryness. They’ve been used for centuries in traditional medicine and are now being added to modern products to try and leverage their calming and healing effects.

1. Ashwagandha

Ashwagandha is one of the most popular adaptogens. The high concentration of antioxidants in the plant and its resulting extracts make it prized in skin care. Emerging research highlights ashwagandha’s potential as a powerful topical skincare ingredient, offering benefits supported by both science and traditional Ayurvedic practices. Studies show that ashwagandha can improve skin hydration, elasticity, and barrier strength, making it effective against visible signs of aging. For example, one clinical study demonstrated that an 8% ashwagandha root extract lotion, standardized to 5% withanolides (potent antioxidants), significantly reduced moisture loss and combated oxidative stress caused by free radicals—unstable molecules from UV rays, pollution, and other environmental factors that accelerate skin aging.

Ashwagandha’s versatility shines in multitasking formulations alongside ingredients like sodium hyaluronate and niacinamide, which enhance hydration, tone, and firmness. Its antibacterial and antifungal properties may help address microbial imbalances, reducing acne and irritation. However, the effectiveness of ashwagandha in skincare relies on consistent concentrations of active compounds. To ensure maximum benefits, look for products with clinically studied formulations and data-backed claims.

If you want to add an antioxidant boost to your morning routine. An ashwagandha serum could be a great choice right before you apply your sunscreen.

2. Reishi Mushroom

Known for: Calming inflammation and hydration

Reishi mushroom, often referred to as the “mushroom of immortality,” is rich in beta-glucans and antioxidants. Reishi mushrooms are primarily composed of water ~90%. However, when processed into a concentrated extract for skincare, the remaining 10%—rich in polysaccharides and triterpenes—provides the active benefits. Polysaccharides act as natural humectants, similar to hyaluronic acid, drawing and holding water on the skin’s surface to keep it hydrated and plump. Triterpenes, on the other hand, are small antioxidants with powerful anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe redness, combat free radicals, and reduce irritation.

While there is limited research directly evaluating Reishi mushroom extract’s effects on human skin, the evidence points to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-tyrosinase activities playing a role in preventing premature aging. Polysaccharides, in particular, are well-studied for their hydrating properties, making Reishi mushrooms a science-backed ingredient for boosting skin hydration when properly formulated in skincare products.

If you are looking for a hydrating serum, one with a reishi mushroom extract could be an excellent option.

3. Ginseng

A staple in Traditional Chinese Medicine, ginseng is famous for its revitalizing properties. It boosts circulation, which helps improve skin tone and reduce dullness. Ginseng is also packed with antioxidants that protect against premature aging and environmental damage.

4. Tremella Mushroom

Snow mushrooms, also known as Tremella fuciformis, are rich in polysaccharides, making them excellent natural hydrators for the skin. These polysaccharides work similarly to hyaluronic acid, forming a protective layer on the skin’s surface that attracts and retains moisture, keeping the skin plump and hydrated.

Like so many of the other adaptogens in skincare, snow mushrooms have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, helping to protect the skin from environmental stressors and soothing redness or irritation. These qualities make snow mushrooms particularly suitable for dry, dehydrated, or sensitive skin, and they are often included in formulations aimed at improving skin elasticity and overall hydration levels.

5. Licorice Root

Known for: Brightening and soothing

Licorice root is celebrated for its ability to reduce hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone. Two key compounds, Glabridin and Liquiritin, work to improve skin tone. Glabridin inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production, while Liquiritin disperses existing melanin to prevent visible dark spots. Clinical studies have even shown licorice root extract to be as effective as hydroquinone in improving skin tone, without the nondesirable side effects.

For acne-prone skin, licorice root offers anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties to soothe irritation and combat acne-causing bacteria. Additionally, it helps regulate sebum production, reducing the risk of clogged pores and breakouts. This makes licorice root one of the more versatile adaptogens in skincare for brightening uneven skin and supporting clearer, balanced skin.

How to Choose the Right Adaptogen for Your Skin

When choosing a skincare product with adaptogens, consider your skin’s unique needs:

For hydration: Look for tremella mushroom or reishi mushroom.
For brightening: Opt for licorice root.
For anti-aging: Try ashwagandha or tremella mushroom.
For calming irritation: reishi mushroom are great options.

Adaptogens in skincare are not new, but they are becoming more popular. Adaptogens are an emerging ingredient category for mainstream skincare. However, they are the backbone of many traditional forms of medicine. They offer the potential of natural solutions to stress, aging, and environmental damage. These are some of the most common concerns in skincare. And the science is gradually developing to support these benefits. So, as the scientific support only grows, I anticipate adaptogens in skincare will only be seen more and more. Whether they are the hero ingredient or one of many actives in a well-formulated product, whether you’re looking to calm inflammation, boost hydration, or revitalize your skin, there’s an adaptogen out there for you.