Peptides have taken the beauty industry by storm, claiming to work miracles on hyperpigmentation, youthful skin, and more. However, we must look beyond marketing claims to truly understand the benefits of peptides. Each peptide serves a unique purpose, and assuming the benefits based on the product label “peptide” is a mistake.
Peptides are fragments of larger proteins in the body that retain some biological activity. Scientists identify beneficial peptides, synthesize them in labs, and incorporate them into skincare products. Let’s explore the fascinating ways in which peptides work.
There are multiple ways to categorize peptides but I think the simplest way they can be categorized is, as extracellular matrix protein producers and process inhibitors for cosmetic applications.
Revitalizing with Extracellular Matrix Protein-Boosting Peptides
As our skin ages, essential proteins like collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid, which form most of our skin tissue, regenerate slower than they replenish. This, along with sun exposure and repetitive facial movements, leads to aging signs like wrinkles, thinning, and less plump skin.
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Topical application of proteins like collagen and hyaluronic acid is common, but they must be small enough to penetrate the skin barrier to be effective. This is where peptides come to the rescue.
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The key benefit of peptides triggering extracellular matrix proteins lies in their small molecular size, allowing them to penetrate the skin barrier and interact with skin cells. By doing so, peptides instruct the skin cells to produce more vital molecules. Some peptides are fragments of larger proteins or activate pathways leading to protein production.
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Some examples that you might find in skincare products:
- Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 – a Matrixyl formulation fragment of procollagen. That triggers collagen production
- Tripeptide-1 (GHK) – a fragment of type I collagen. This triggers collagen production
Inhibiting Biological Processes with Peptides
Peptides don’t just enhance extracellular matrix protein production; they also have the ability to inhibit undesirable biological processes. The body has processes producing proteins to maintain youthful skin, but there are also processes breaking down these proteins.
Antioxidants in skincare products help counter some of these processes, and peptides can also be a good helper.
Some examples that you might find in skincare products:
- Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 (Syn-Coll) – a fragment of thrombospondin-1, prevents the expression of molecules that degrade extracellular matrix proteins and cause inflammation.
- Acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline®) – a fragment of a protein involved in muscle contraction. When this peptide interacts with neurotransmitters, it prevents muscle contraction, leading to its “Botox in a Bottle” nickname.
Embracing the Versatility of Peptides
Peptides are a thrilling addition to skincare due to their incredible versatility. They can be customized for various functions and, being small molecules, have the ability to penetrate the skin barrier effectively. Their potential is vast, making them a source of great excitement in the industry.
However, it’s important to note that peptides are not a miraculous replacement for botox or retinoids; they are a powerful addition to a well-rounded skincare routine.
Peptides have the potential to hold a treasure trove of benefits in skin care products, catering to various skin needs. By understanding their true potential and harnessing their powers effectively, we can unlock the wonders of peptides and achieve healthier, more vibrant skin. There are many potential benefits of peptides in skincare products, because they can be tailored for custom functions, and they are small so they are able to penetrate the skin barrier.
The excitement around peptides is understandable, and there is so much more potential for this ingredient category. However, they are not a miracle skincare ingredient that is going to completely replace botox or retinoids any time soon.