Should You Use Peptides or Retinol?

written by Allison Goins, Ph.D. | Published on January 27^th,2024 at 12:00 pm

Peptides are one of THE IT ingredients in skincare right now. And of course, it is only natural for people to want to compare a new up-and-coming ingredient category to some of the more tried and true. Often when products are marketed they give the impression the new ingredient can blow the OG out of the water, and it is hard to know if this is marketing hype or actually true. With all of the benefits that are marketed for peptides, it is not surprising that people want to know if peptides can replace retinoids in their skincare routine. So let’s talk about whether you should be using peptides or retinols in your skincare routine.

The very short answer to the question of peptides or retinol for your skincare routine is probably don’t ditch your retinol. Retinols are a pretty well-proven ingredient category in skincare for acne, increasing cell turnover to get rid of blemishes faster, and promoting collagen production to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. And while all retinoids are not created equal; if you are using one of the science-backed types it is likely you will get the results you want as long as you are consistent and patient.

But depending on your skin type, skin concerns, or past experience with retinol you might just want to explore something different, and this is where peptides can be helpful. Today there is no evidence that they are more effective than retinols, but they are a versatile category with great benefits and promise. So let’s talk about the differences between retinols and peptides and when one would make more sense in your skincare routine than another.

About the Author: Dr. Allison isn’t your average beauty blogger. Armed with a Ph.D. in Materials Science and Engineering, she spent years delving into the fascinating world of how materials and chemicals interact with our bodies. Though her career path took a different turn, her passion for this scientific dance never wavered. Driven by a desire to empower women with knowledge, Allison founded Relatable Science. Here, she dismantles the often-confusing claims of the skincare industry, translating complex science into clear, actionable advice. Whether it’s dissecting the latest ingredient buzzword or explaining the intricate wrinkle-fighting mechanisms, Allison’s expertise shines through. So, when it comes to navigating the often-murky waters of skincare, trust Dr. Allison to be your science-backed guide. With her blend of in-depth knowledge, engaging explanations, and unwavering commitment to truth, she’ll help you decode the claims, choose the right products, and finally witness the radiant results you deserve.

Understanding Retinoids

Originating from vitamin A, retinol is a proven ally to address so many skin concerns. It is so effective that some forms at certain concentrations are regulated as drugs and have to be prescribed by a dermatologist. Today there are quite a few over-the-counter products that contain various derivatives of retinol. Retinols are popular because there is data that they can help address a key concern for almost any skin concern. Here is a VERY brief summary of the ways different types of retinoids can help address common skincare concerns.

Anti-Aging

When people are looking for anti-aging skincare typically they are talking about increasing collagen production, minimizing wrinkles, and fighting sun damage. And some retinoids can help address these issues.

Retinol: Inhibits collagen breakdown, stimulates collagen and GAG production, reduces wrinkles, improves texture, and addresses dryness and fine lines.
Retinaldehyde: Stabilizes retinoid formulations, and improves wrinkles and skin texture.
Retinyl Esters: Act as antioxidants, address wrinkles, and stabilize formulations.
Tazarotene: Provides photoprotection from sunlight.

Acne Treatment

If you are link me and constantly battling acne several forms of retinoids can help control the oil production in your face and help speed up the time it takes to remove post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin): Promotes rapid skin cell turnover, unclogs pores, reduces inflammation, and treats acne.
Adapalene: Modulates keratinization, increases cell proliferation, and has a keratolytic effect to treat acne and excessive keratosis.
Tazarotene: Regulates genes controlling keratinocyte differentiation and inflammation, effective for acne, psoriasis, and sun-damaged skin.

It is important to note retinoids are very powerful molecules and it is a good idea to consult a dermatologist on the proper way to incorporate them into your skincare routine. They can be very irritating when you first start using them so if you have sensitive skin they may not be for you. Additionally when you are using retinoids (and honestly any other time) sunscreen is non-negotiable.

Understanding Peptides

Although it may not seem like it peptides are not just one thing they are actually an entire category of ingredients. They are tiny protein fragments made of amino acids, the building blocks of skin’s essential proteins like collagen and elastin. And they are incredibly unique, not all peptides are created equal: their sequences and as a result their functions in skincare vary greatly.

They are like puzzle pieces that trigger specific biological functions in skin cells. Some of the most popular peptides in skincare can:

Boost collagen and elastin production to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Enhance penetration of other skincare actives.
Inhibit wrinkle-causing muscle contractions or melanin production that can lead to hyperpigmentation.

Peptides hold promise but understand their limitations and choose products strategically. So it makes sense they are often compared to retinoids because they can do a lot of the same things. But don’t let hype overshadow your informed skincare choices!

So Peptides or Retinol: Choosing the Right Ingredients You

Everyone has such unique skin and there are so many factors that can contribute to the way your skin behaves. So it is hard to pinpoint exactly what will work for you from broad skin type categories, but it can be a great starting place and you can work with a licensed skincare professional like a dermatologist or esthetician if you need more help

So You Have Sensitive or Sensitized Skin, Which Should You Use?

I am starting with sensitive or sensitized skin because I think it is one of the easier ones to be definitive about peptides or retinol. Typically a person with sensitive or sensitized skin is battling with redness, irritation, dryness, and flaking from numerous products and fragrances. So if this sounds like your skin, retinoids are probably not for you.

Retinol can be very irritating to people without sensitive skin so a person with sensitive skin may get it even worse. If you have sensitive skin and really want to use retinol a dermatologist is a MUST. Starting at a very low concentration and frequency can help you incorporate the ingredients into your routine.

Peptides on the other hand can be gentle and hydrating, making them a good option for sensitive skin. There are peptides designed to be soothing to your skin to help reduce redness and irritation. Some peptides can help boost collagen production, improving skin elasticity and hydration.

It is definitely going to take longer to see improvement in your skin if you opt to use peptides, but doing it in a more comfortable way and without doing more damage to your skin is definitely worth it.

Retinols Favorite Skin Type Acne-Prone Oily Skin

This is my skin type and honestly, the group that retinol was discovered and retinol-containing products are usually designed for. If you have acne-prone oily skin typically you have pretty regular breakouts and pimples, enlarged pores from oil production, and have to deal with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (when the pimple is finally gone and leaves you with something to remember it by).

Retinol is a powerful acne treatment that can help to unclog pores and reduce inflammation. However, it can also be irritating, so it is important to use it carefully and under the supervision of a dermatologist. There are some lower-concentration retinoids like adapalene (Differin®) that are available over the counter that you can also use now to combat your acne.

Retinoids can also help shrink pores by controlling oil production and increase cell turnover to help you get rid of dark marks left by acne faster; so they just really shine for this skin type.

Peptides can help to regulate oil production and reduce inflammation, which can help to prevent breakouts. They also can help with hyperpigmentation, by preventing its formation. However, they are not going to be anywhere near as effective as retinol in doing this for your skin.

If You Have Normal Skin Which Should You Use?

Often people think of a person with normal skin as “lucky” and without any concerns but that just is not true. If you have normal skin typical skincare concerns for you could be dehydration from your environment, loss of elasticity, uneven skin tone from sun, and hormonal acne.

Retinoids can help to boost collagen production and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. It also helps increase skin cell production so you can even out your skin tone faster. However, it can also be dehydrating because it reduces your skin’s natural oil production, so it could be more irritating than helpful.

Peptides can help to boost collagen production, which can improve skin elasticity and hydration. They can also help to even out skin tone and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. So if you give retinols a try and don’t like the side effects like purging or flaking maybe try incorporating the right peptides into your routine.

Stuck in the Middle Retinols or Peptides for Combination Skin

People with combination skin often get lumped in with the acne-prone skin type but that is not fair because the concerns can be different. If you have combination skin typically you have an oily t-zone ( forehead, nose, and chin) and the rest of your skin tends to be more normal. This can also mean enlarged pores in these oily regions, but sensitivity in your normal regions.

Retinol can be used on the oily T-zone to help control oil and prevent breakouts. However, it should not be used in dry areas, as it can be irritating.

Peptides can be a good option for combination skin because they can be hydrating and soothing for dry areas and oil-regulating for oily areas.

If you don’t want to be bothered with separate products for different regions of your skin peptides can be a better option for you because they are more gentle and work more gradually.

Another Place Retinoids Shine Anti-Aging Skincare

If you are looking for an anti-aging option because you want to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve your skin’s elasticity and plumpness, or even out your skin tone for sun damage then retinoids are going to be your best bet.

Retinol is a powerful anti-aging ingredient that can help boost collagen production, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, and even out skin tone. However, it can be not very pleasant, so it is important to use it carefully. If you are not accustomed to using a retinol introduce it gradually into your skincare routine. Try mixing it with your moisturizer and using it once or twice a week.

Peptides can help to boost collagen production, which can reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. They can also help to even out skin tone and reduce hyperpigmentation. However, they are not as effective as retinoids so you have to decide how patient you are willing to be.

The Final Verdict on Peptides or Retinol

Both ingredient categories are great and can be very helpful in addressing so many skincare concerns. While peptides excel in providing hydration and addressing specific skin issues, retinol takes the lead in combating signs of aging and acne management. Understanding your skin type and concerns is crucial for determining which ingredient suits you best. However, many skincare enthusiasts find success in incorporating both for a comprehensive approach to skincare.

Regardless of the chosen ingredients, consistency is the cornerstone of an effective skincare routine. Readers are encouraged to build a personalized regimen, incorporating peptides and retinol in a way that suits their skin needs.

Amid the enthusiasm for achieving radiant skin, some common mistakes can hinder progress. Overuse of peptides or retinol, mixing incompatible ingredients, and neglecting professional advice are pitfalls to steer clear of on your skincare journey.

In the pursuit of healthier and more youthful skin, peptides and retinol are both great tools in your skincare toolbox. The synergy of these ingredients addresses a spectrum of skincare concerns. As you embark on your skincare journey, explore the benefits of peptides and retinol, finding the perfect balance for your