Exosome Facials: Are They Worth the Money?

written by Allison Goins, Ph.D. | Published on February 10th, 2024 at 12:00 pm

Have you been bombarded with headlines about the latest “miracle” in skincare – exosome facials? Promising smoother, younger-looking skin, these treatments are generating serious buzz. But before you rush to schedule an appointment and drop hundreds of dollars, let’s talk about the reality behind the hype. In this article, we are exploring the science, potential benefits, and critical considerations before you decide if this treatment is right for you.

What are Exosomes? | How Do Exosome Facials Work? | Marketed Benefits of Exosome Facials | Science Behind Exosome Facials | So Is An Exosome Facial For You?

About the Author: Allison has a Ph.D. in Materials Science and Engineering, and has spent years delving into the fascinating world of how materials interact with the human body. After her academic pursuits, her passion for scientific exploration steered her toward the realm of beauty and skincare. This is where Relatable Science was born, a blog dedicated to unraveling the science behind the products. With a keen eye for research, Allison meticulously analyzes peer-reviewed studies to translate complex scientific jargon into easy-to-understand takeaways. Her mission? To empower individuals, to make informed choices about their skincare journeys by bridging the gap between scientific advancements and everyday routines. Whether it’s deciphering the latest ingredient buzz or understanding the intricate dance between exosomes and skin health, Allison is here to guide you through the scientific maze with relatable explanations and actionable insights.

What are Exosomes?

Think of your cells as a distribution center, holding everything you need (or want) to survive. And exosomes are like all of the trucks that get loaded and leave the distribution center, delivering important molecules all over your body. These microscopic delivery trucks, released by cells, carry important molecules like proteins, DNA, and RNA. – which trigger important functions like collagen production and cell regeneration. So it makes sense in skincare, the excitement stems from their potential to deliver these instructions directly to your skin cells.

So How Do Exosome Facials Work?

While the trendy exosome facial itself only takes about 15-30 minutes, expect your whole appointment to last 45 minutes to 2 hours. This includes a consultation to assess your suitability, skin preparation, and post-treatment guidance. The actual treatment involves applying a special exosome serum or gel, potentially with microneedling for deeper penetration.

Some of the marketed benefits of exosome facials:

Exosome facials target wrinkles and fine lines:

Wrinkles are like tiny creases in your skin that show up as you get older. It’s like when you bend a piece of paper repeatedly – it starts to crease and doesn’t spring back as easily. Structural proteins like collagen and elastin work together to keep your skin plump and springy. As we age we produce less collagen and elastin and those temporary lines become deeper and more permanent.

Exosomes trigger cells to produce key structural proteins like collagen, a key player in skin plumpness and elasticity. So an exosome facial can potentially give your skin cells the boost they need to help make up the deficit.

Improve your skin’s elasticity and firmness with an exosome facial…

Structural proteins like collagen and elastin also work hand-in-hand to keep your skin elastic and firm-looking. Collagen is like the scaffolding under your skin, keeping it plump and bouncy. And elastin is like stretchy rubber bands that help your skin snap back after movement.

So in the same way exosomes can trigger your cells to produce these important proteins to combat wrinkles. Exosomes trigger their production and also potentially lead to firmer, tighter skin.

Exosome facials also can also help even out your skin tone…

Cell turnover is one of the key processes in brightening your skin. As your body produces new skin cells the old ones that are holding on to the hyperpigmentation fall off, revealing new fresh even layers of skin.

The molecules that exosomes carry, can trigger cell regeneration and speed up cell turnover which ultimately helps speed up the brightening process.

So What Does The Science Say About The Potential Benefits of Exosome Facials

While relatively new, studies show promise. A 2023 study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology demonstrated significant improvements in wrinkles, elasticity, and hydration in participants receiving exosome facials. Another study published in the Journal of Surgery by an exosome serum supplier suggests exosomes derived from mesenchymal stem cells promote skin rejuvenation. However, it’s crucial to remember these are preliminary findings.

But Hold On, It’s Not All Glowing Reviews:

Remember, research is ongoing, and more studies are needed to confirm the long-term safety and efficacy of exosome facials. Additionally, the price tag can be hefty, so weigh the costs and benefits carefully before diving in.

Do Exosomes Actually Penetrate?

There are some studies that indicate although exosomes may be smaller than the cells that carry them, they still are not able to penetrate through the skin barrier. Due to this challenge, exosome facials are typically paired with microneedling or microdermabrasion to help enhance the penetration.

So, Are Exosome Facials Right for You?

If you’re intrigued by this cutting-edge approach and not deterred by the limited scientific support, exosome facials might be worth exploring. However, here are some key points to remember:

Do your research

Choose a reputable spa or clinic with experience in exosome treatments. Exosomes are not FDA-approved or regulated today, so you want to make sure you are working with a treatment provider that uses high-quality and safe ingredients.

Consult your doctor/dermatologist

Exosomes absolutely fall into the “drug” category. Their intended purpose benefits are to affect your cells on a cellular level. Because of this, if you are considering an exosome facial you should discuss it with your doctor or dermatologist to make sure it is aligned with your individual needs and skincare concerns.

Expect a premium price

This is a high-end treatment, so be prepared for the cost. And be prepared for multiple treatments before you start seeing results. In skincare, there is nothing that is one-and-done.

Follow aftercare instructions:

Maximize the results by adhering to the spa’s recommendations.

Further research is necessary to confirm the long-term safety and efficacy of exosome facials. Additionally, the hefty price tag demands careful consideration of the cost-benefit equation. Today there is not overwhelming evidence that an exosome facial is going to provide benefits that some other in-spa treatments also offer.

Remember, everyone’s skin is unique. What works wonders for one person might not be as effective for another. So, approach exosome facials with an open mind, prioritize listening to your skin, and don’t be afraid to experiment to find what truly works best for your skincare journey.

References

Lotfy, A., AboQuella, N. M., & Wang, H. (2023). Mesenchymal stromal/stem cell (MSC)-derived exosomes in clinical trials. Stem Cell Research & Therapy, 14(1), 66. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37024925/
Kim, D. H., Kang, S. E., Kim, M. S., Kang, Y. H., Lee, Y. H., Chung, I. H., & Jeon, Y. B. (2021). The Utilization of Human Placental Mesenchymal Stem Cell Derived Exosomes in Aging Skin: An Investigational Pilot Study. Journal of Surgical Research, 1388(2), 39-47. https://exosomes.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/JSUR-1388-2.pdf
Yu, W., Li, M., Li, M., Guo, W., Li, X., Zhao, Y., … & Zheng, G. (2021). Topical Application of Exosomes Derived from Human Umbilical Cord Mesenchymal Stem Cells in Combination with Sponge Spicules for Treatment of Photoaging. International Journal of Nanomedicine, 16, 8385-8398. https://doi.org/10.2147/IJN.S249751
Yang, T., Zhang, X., Wu, H., Chen, W., Liu, S., Liu, H., … & Wu, M. (2022). Exosomes based advancements for application in medical aesthetics. Frontiers in Bioengineering and Biotechnology, 10, 1083640. https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fbioe.2022.1083640/full
Azam, F. (2020). Needle-Free Injection of Exosome-based candidates move into the clinic. Nature Reviews Drug Discovery, 19(3), 156-157. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7032013/
Kim, B.-J., Kim, W.-C., Song, Y.-B., Sung, J.-H., Kwon, T.-G., Oh, Y.-M., & Bae, J.-M. (2023). Efficacy of combined treatment with human adipose tissue stem cell-derived exosome-containing solution and microneedling for facial skin aging: A 12-week prospective, randomized, split-face study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 22(2), 380-388. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37377400/
Kim, K. H., & Sung, J. H. (2023). A Review of exosomes and their application in cutaneous medical aesthetics. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 22(3), 801-814
, 14(1), 66. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37498301/